The first day was spent on an all day drive north from Cape Town to Cederberg, in the Northeast of South Africa. Cederberg was not that inspiring of a destination although it did serve as a place for our new Tribe to get acquainted over some dinner and drinks and to commiserate about the unexpectedly severe cold that hardly anyone was prepared for (probably high 40s F. at night).
Day Two was a much shorter drive to the South African side of the Orange River, the geographic border between S.A. and Namibia. In just a day and a half many of us were amazed at the changes in terrain from the Atlantic Coast to the rolling hills and forests and then to the barren desert in Northern South Africa and we were delighted to see the oasis like conditions of grass and trees along the riverfront as we drove to the charming campsite in the early afternoon. After putting up our tents we had all afternoon to swim in the river and lounge by the bank.
I have been planning on taking a trip to Africa for the past 2 years now and while normally I choose to avoid organized tours that tend to be overpriced and filled with couples and senior citizens I discovered that many of the game parks in Africa require guides and due to the slow pace and rough nature of African travel that there are dozens of Overland trips that are frequented by youngish adventure backpackers like myself. After doing a fair amount of research I came to realize that the cheapest overland tour is not necessarily the best and from my research and first hand feedback on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree Forum I was leaning towards Nomad Africa for its reasonable (average) price along with their strong reputation for well up-kept vehicles, experienced guides and strong customer satisfaction. After arriving at this conclusion I was pleased to learn my friend Pam had actually taken the Cape Town to Victoria Falls tour with Nomad and she had nothing but high praise for the experience so I knew I was on the right track.
Normally I do not pre-book high cost items like tours since often they are cheaper on-site and the added flexibility can come in handy if I need to change or alter my plans. In this case I was concerned the tour might be fully booked in advance so I pre-booked, which did in fact prove both un-necessary and more costly ($1550 vs. $1100) so I would recommend others to hold off until they hit Cape Town unless they wish to do a tour during high season (June - August). Another thing I debated back and forth with myself was whether to do the camping vs. the much more expensive Accommodated trip of virtually the same route and on which date to book to get the most diversity from the group. After much back and forth with the helpful Nomad sales staff I requested detailed information about the Nationality, Gender, Couple Status and Age of the currently booked clients on 3 different tour dates and for both the Camping and Accommodated options (which were in effect separate trips). I settled on the camping tour since it offered the greatest diversity and the Average age was younger and more adventurous. As it turned out that was an excellent call because the Camping trip boasted an average age of 29 or so and 10 Nationalities for 24 people while the Accommodated Trip on the same date had a late 40s average age with 2 or 3 Nationalities and only 7 individuals (mostly couples) which I am assuming would have been significantly less enjoyable from an adventure and social standpoint for me.
After Durban I headed to a beach town called Port St. John, which was supposed to be a super laid back village along the coast with nothing to do but kick back, swim, go for walks and hang out. Unfortunately my great luck with the weather quickly ran out and it started to dump rain 5 minutes after I got there an never stopped for the 2 days I was there so all I saw was the inside of the spread out hostel and a very stormy ocean could barely be seen through the storm clouds. And surprisingly it was super cold there all day and night and most of the backpackers there were hard pressed to stay warm as we huddled near the tiny fire place that put out less heat than a laundry drier. I knew the good weather would return so I was unperturbed and rationed that I could see plenty of nice beaches in California and Thailand and I did not come to Africa for the beaches.
From St. Lucia a group of us carried southeast along the Indian Ocean coast of South Africa to the large surfer-beach city of Durban. As we had read Durban is home to the largest community of Indian descent in the world I was quite looking forward to some tasty Indian food. While relaxing at the hostel the first night the owner, a very laid back surfer guy, instructed us about the local South African dish known as Bunny Chow, which is basically a 1/3 loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with various meat or vegetarian curries that are created with a unique mix of local spices that are not even found in India. There are various stories about the origins of the name, but one of the more common is that it is meant to be eaten without utensils so you just rip off a corner of bread and scoop out some curry to go with it and you end up eating with your paws, something that is not so easy to do with the chowder bread-bowl back in San Francisco.
After Swaziland we crossed back into South Africa and came south to the Indian Ocean coastal town of St. Lucia, which is situated on a wildlife estuary that is packed with a few thousand crocodile and hippos. On the second day there we booked an evening boat tour. In the 90 minutes trip we saw over a hundred hippos lying in the water, some who growled at us when we got too close and others who eyed us warily. Apparently, despite spending most of their day in the water, hippos do not swim so they only bounce along the shallows, which is kind of amusing to imagine. They also only eat grass so they have to exit the water at night to graze. The boat captain had shown us one a severed hippo tusks and it was a good 18 inches long and for sure could do some damage. Apparently the hippo tusk is the highest quality ivory above even Elephant hence why the hippo is also on the endangered species list. The cruise was amazing and well worth the nominal cost since the few hippos we saw at Kruger were far off and hardly visible in the water with little or no movement.
After Kruger we traveled just a few hours by bus to the small nation of Swaziland, which is surrounded mostly by South Africa and with the edge on the Mozambique border. The Kingdom of Swaziland aligned with the British early in the colonial period so when the other settlements banded to form the union of South Africa it was a separate zone that was not included and even after South Africa was annexed by the British it remained separate. Swaziland was also one of the only local tribes who successfully resisted the warring Zulu - a source of much pride for Swazis and strong esteem for other tribal Africans.
After 25 hours of flights and a 9-hour time change I arrived in Johannesburg somewhat delirious on Tuesday, April 8th. As Johannesburg has the reputation as perhaps the top most dangerous city in the world in terms of violent crime and murder, I was a bit nervous about finding safe transportation to a hostel or guest house in a relatively good neighborhood (I had meant to do some research and book ahead but I ran out of time). Thankfully my trusty Bible (Lonely Planet travel guide) came through as it had countless times before and I found a place in a nice neighborhood who also organized their own transportation and after waiting a bit over an hour I was on my way through the seemingly benign urban sprawl that is Johannesburg. After arriving about 6PM local time with 9 hours of jet lag I promptly booked my room and passed out, sleeping through until 6 the next morning.
After a good night’s sleep I booked onto a backpacker travel bus that allows you to hop on and off at any number of stops throughout South Africa and by the early afternoon I was in Nelspruit, the gateway to quite famous Kruger National Park – the largest game park in South Africa and one of the most famous in all the world. I have always heard how amazing Kruger is to visit, but I was a bit concerned it might be over-touristy and was frankly a bit skeptical as it seemed a bit over hyped and with the knowledge I would still get to go on a safari in 4-6 other parks through Africa I almost even considered skipping it but decided it was best to see it and make my own judgment and comparison with the other parks. Also, being an experienced traveler I tend to avoid packaged tours and the geriatric crowd along with many of them but I did not see any easy way of seeing the park on my own and decided with limited time I felt it was best to book onto a tour and gain the expertise of a seasoned guide, but to shop around for a tour with a small vehicle size (animals are not likely to get to close to a huge bus), one that catered to backpackers with a smaller group size and still with a highly experienced guide. What I ended up with by booking through the Funky Monkey backpacker hostile exceeded all my expectations on all counts and made my visit to Kruger one of the more spectacular travel experiences of my life.
6. SCUBA diving off the coast of Zanzibar, Tanzania (the former British settlement, Omani seat of power and center of slave commerce)
5. Riding in a canoe through hippo territory of the Okavango Delta and watching the elephants, giraffes and lions come to the river to drink/feed ( Botswana )
4. Watching the lion/hyena feeding frenzy of the Maasai Mara Great Migration of over 1,000,000 wildebeests and 200,000 zebras (Tanzania/Kenya)
3. Coming fact-to-face – within 6 feet – with a 15-30 animal strong family of Mountain Gorillas in the Mist - only 700 of these creatures are left in the wild (Rwanda/Uganda)
2. Jamming in a helicopter over Victoria Falls, the largest in the world (Zambia/Zimbabwe)
1. Taking a balloon ride over the Serengeti / Massai Mara game parks to stealthily view/photograph the Big Five Game from above (Tanzania/Kenya)