Cali & Popayan, Colombia
July 19th, 2010After 6 fun filled nights in Bogota I headed on the night bus to Cali, near the Pacific Coast of Colombia. Having read about the extreme cold on the long distance buses I was dressed for the journey with jeans, a sweater, a light jacket, a beanie hat, gloves and a light travel blanket – and still I was freakin’ freezing. Like many of the buses in Latin America the air-conditioning does not have the capacity to regulate temperature so it is either always on at max or off. When on, at night and in the mountains the temperature can quickly plummet into the low 50s and this night was as cold as I had seen it. In addition, the 2 lane highway between Bogota’ and Cali is very mountainous, with constant banking turns and changes in elevation. In order to increase safety the government requires buses to install a passenger compartment speedometer so those on board can see the current speed and the drivers will be encouraged to stay within safety limits; unfortunately most drivers disable these boxes while on the highways so they do little good. They must get paid the same for driving no matter how much time the trip takes them and thus they are incentivized to drive like a bat outta hell to get to their destination faster and thus effectively increase their hourly pay. The problem with this of course is that at night, on mountainous roads with sharp curves, cliff drop-offs with very limited guard rails and fog fast driving is exceptionally dangerous. Add to this the passing techniques of Colombians to pass on blind curves and rises and it makes for a harrowing journey. I have taken many buses in my travels with enthusiastic drivers but in 2008 the last time I had taken a bus where I felt imminently in peril my bus ended up rolling over in the mountains of Kenya in the middle of the night. As this was the first harrowing trip I had taken since then I had the same sinking feeling as the bus tipped back and forth in the turns as I did just prior to that crash and thus between the cold and the fear of death I did not sleep so well.


